You can think of our journey from Victoria (Yarra River) to Tasmania (Tamar River) as comprising the four steps making up the foxtrot – slow, slow, quick quick! And it did feel a bit like a dance, avoiding bad weather and taking advantage of favourable conditions. We were also well aware that the waters across the Bass and Banks straits can be treacherous as explained in this article. This meant we took the opportunities to progress our journey when they presented, despite wanting to spend more time in some areas.
It was also challenging for me writing a short blog that covered about 500 nautical miles (NM) over 3 weeks, especially with all the photos/videos I took, so I didn’t!!
Passage overview
We planned to make the journey from Melbourne to Wilsons Promontory over a few days, because to travel there directly its about 130 NM and would take 17 hours.
So these were the stops we were planning to make, but they didn’t quite match reality!
- Melbourne to Portsea, about 34NM with an overnight stop: This ended up taking us 6.5 hours because we got fuel along the way, and this went to plan!
- Portsea to Westernport (Cleeland Bight), about 46NM with an overnight stop: We changed our mind after seeing bad weather coming and ended up anchoring further into Westernport. This was about 48NM and took us close to 7 hours. Due to the weather we stayed around Westernport for a week!
- Westernport (Cleeland Bight) to Wilsons Promontory, about 69NM stopping for 2-3 days: We always knew the weather conditions would dictate our anchorage (east or west side of Wilsons Prom) and we ended up on the east side in Waterloo Bay (tucked into Home Cove just off Keijsers Beach). Initially we were going to stay at Refuge Cove, but using AIS we could see a few boats already there. This leg took us close to 8.5 hours. Due to the weather we stayed here for another week!
Upon reaching Wilsons Promontory, our next steps would be as follows:
- Wilsons Promontory to Deal Island, about 50NM, for a few nights so we could also go to Erith Island: When we finally left, we had great weather and the trip took us just under 7 hours. We stopped here for two nights due to worsening conditions coming.
- Deal Island to the northern end of Flinders Island, about 38NM. Weather conditions were within our tolerance but at the top of the range (as in swell 1.5m beam on) – the trip taking just over 5 hours – wasn’t the most pleasant!
- West coast of Flinders Island over about a week, stopping at suitable anchorages depending on the weather conditions: From the north of Flinders to the south of Clarke Island, this would be just under 50NM and take us about 7 hours.
- Cross Banks Strait to the Tamar river: From our crossing point before the start of the Banks Strait into the Tamar River it was about 70NM and would take around 10 hours. Again, we planned to do this in a couple of stages anchoring again where it was most appropriate for conditions.
During our passage planning I estimated it could take us 2-3 weeks so we bought a lot of food, especially tins of tomatoes, tuna, salmon and some tins of legumes, as well as having dried versions of lentils, black beans, red kidney beans, etc. I can say that we were never in danger of losing weight! However, we certainly ran some of our supplies very low, especially fresh vegetables and UHT milk. And our fresh water supplies were getting low too, as during this whole trip we collected no rainwater. Does it ever rain here?
I tried to create a single “Relive” video of our whole journey, but the file was too large, so I’ve split it across the four steps described below and you can click a link to go straight there. I’ve also included short videos of us on passage if you want to see the conditions we experienced.
Melbourne to Westernport via Portsea - slow
The first half of the trip to Westernport was very calm but these conditions changed such that we had waves (caused by wind coming from the shore) hitting our port side and swell hitting us on our starboard side. Never dangerous but the rolling wasn’t pleasant and clearly the cats were stressed, as evidence by them having used the bed as a toilet, instead of their litter tray!
Click a photo to read the caption.
Westernport to Wilsons Promontory - slow
After three nights anchored just north of Hastings, we headed to Cobb Bluff for another two nights. For first six nights after we left Melbourne there was no rain and we ‘wasted’ some water washing bedding (that the cats had fouled). So we decided to go into Westernport marina, primarily to get water, but because you can’t just get water we also topped up the fuel tanks.
Following this we had one night at Cleeland Bight before heading south to Waterloo Bay at Wilsons Promontory, where we ended up tucked into Waterloo Bay just off Keijsers Beach.
While we were at Wilsons Promontory the weather was quite unpredictable, ranging from very windy and overcast on some days to sunny and dead calm on others, but still no rain!
I took these photos en route into Westernport marina and then to Cleeland Bight. Click a photo to read the caption.
I took these photos while anchored at Wilsons Promontory. Click a photo to read the caption.
Wilsons Promontory to Flinders Island, via Deal Island - quick
I planned two approaches to Deal Island, depending on the tides, and based on this little snippet of information in one of my reference books:
The stream in the Murray Pass flows at 2-5 knots, the flood sets towards the south-west, the ebb to the north-east.
On Wednesday 6 March, two weeks after leaving Melbourne, we finally had a great weather window to head to Deal Island, and our patience was rewarded. I don’t think we could have had a better crossing and the conditions seemed much calmer than the predicted forecast. We arrived close to the slack, bottom of the tide, so we could have approached from either the south-west or the north-east without the current helping or hindering us. We ended up coming from the south-west around Dover Island and spent two nights anchored at Deal Island.
These photos were taken leaving Wilsons Prom and approaching Deal Island. As you can also see, we had a great crossing. I was pretty amazed to see a lot of wallabies on the beach at Deal Island. Clearly they are not worried by people.
When anchoring, we had to look for patches of sand among the weed, as it’s much harder to set your anchor in weed and you’re in danger of dragging. But on our third attempt, we were set. Also, we always use our Garmin’s anchor drag alarm and keep a very close eye on our track before settling in for the evening.
The walks on Deal Island offered great views and I know I’ve said it before, but my photos don’t do them justice! We also met the new caretakers, who had arrived the day before, via a light plane, and were staying for three months.
While it wasn’t long enough at Deal Island and we didn’t get the opportunity to visit Erith Island, once again we had to continue to make the most of the better weather. And there’s always another time!
The crossing from Deal to Flinders Island wasn’t great -I felt seasick much of the trip as we were beam on to the swell – so I was very relieved when we got to our anchorage, just inside Roydon Island. And despite there being a lot of weed, which was hard to see, we managed to set the anchor on our first attempt.
These photos taken while on anchor near Roydon Island. Click a photo to read the caption.
It was very windy overnight and until about midday Saturday but when conditions improved, we continued at our quick pace down the coast and stayed overnight at Trousers Bay.
While here we met the crew of Zofia and Moonshadow and enjoyed ‘sundowners’ with them. Zofia was heading north and Moonshadow was returning to home berth at Tamar River Yacht Club, our destination. I finally got the song out of my head, only to be reading a novel that talked about Moonshadow Enterprises!
I also had a swim in the bay (a bit cold initially) but quite pleasant, and this explains why I’d seen other people swimming too!
These photos taken during our passage from Roydon Island to Trousers Bay. Click a photo to read the caption.
I’ve been following a YouTube channel about a young couple circumnavigating Australia (Slim & Soph – Sailing Nakama). What a coincidence that I said hello to a lady exploring Flinders island by car (she lives in northern NSW) only to find out she was Slim’s mum!
These photos were taken while anchored at Trousers Bay (no captions).
Flinders Island (Trousers Bay) to Beauty Point - quick
On Sunday 10 March we continued our quick pace with an overnight anchorage at Preservation Island before crossing the Banks Strait.
These photos taken on our way to and while anchored at Preservation Island (no captions). Something that surprised me was how many low islands there are along this passage of water, some offering options for anchoring, depending on the weather.
Again the water colour changes were amazing. We looked to be anchored close to the rocks but we did have at least 60m between our stern and the nearest rocks.
We’d been advised to take care crossing the Banks Strait because it’s shallow and a massive amount of water flows through with the tides. In fact, in one of my reference books it reads:
During wind against current conditions it is not a good place to be and prudent navigators will wait for better conditions. Currents can be 3-4 knots in some locations.
An experienced local fisherman has suggested that “You feel you can relax after crossing the Bass Strait, but if you relax too soon, Banks Strait will slap you around like you have never been slapped before!”
So on Monday 11 March, and knowing conditions to cross the Banks Strait were close to perfect, we headed across to the north coast of Tasmania and stayed overnight at Croppies Bay.
These photos taken on our way to, and at Croppies Bay. Click a photo to read the caption.
The next day we headed to the Tamar River.
Once again, not dangerous but we were punching into the swell and the waves were quite close together meaning that we were bouncing up and down A LOT! There was one particularly big wave and when we went down the other side we heard a rather loud bang. I went checking things but couldn’t figure out what had caused the noise. Later, when we anchored in West Arm, Robert discovered the anchor chain had fallen to one side and had become tangled. I suspect this explained the noise we’d heard.
The current runs quite strong in the Tamar River and we were advised to come into the marina at slack tide (close to top or bottom). Since there are many shallow areas, we also wanted to come in close to the top of the tide. It was going to take about 7 hours from Croppies Bay, so we decided to anchor overnight in the West Arm and go into the Tamar Yacht Club Marina the following day.
Upon arriving at the marina we noted the berth we’d been allocated was different from what we’ve been used to in QLD, NSW and VIC. There were two poles for us to reverse through and we’d been advised to pick up the ‘slings’, run our line through them, and secure the lines to hold the bow in place. Given the height of our bow, this proved difficult (read impossible). Robert grabbed a line that was floating in the water and secured the bow using it until he had the stern lines sorted. Then we put a kayak into the water and I took the lines from Poseidon to the sling, threaded them through, then back to the boat so Robert could secure them. The way they’re attached, when we leave it’ll be easy to release them.
These are my final photos taken on our way to Beauty Point. Click a photo to read the caption.
Where to next
We were planning to go up the Tamar River to Launceston in Poseidon, which would be achievable if we went with the tides. However, at low tide boats sit in the mud near at Launceston and we decided we didn’t want to do this (we didn’t want mud coming into our through hull fittings, particularly the ones where saltwater cools the diesel engines). Maybe this wouldn’t have been an issue, but we decided we didn’t want to risk it.
So we’ll hire a car and explore the area before heading (some time after Easter) towards the east coast of Tasmania and staying at St Helens.
5 Responses
Great videos, Pam. Love the title of this blog.
It took a while to read the whole story. Well done all three of you, Poseidon looking after you as well as you look after Poseidon!
Looking forward to hearing of your Tassie Travels. I always thought a trip up to New Norfolk would be lovely but don’t know if you draught would allow.
Love the animations of your track.
Hi What an experience. Your photos & documentation of your trip is fantastic. We hope you enjoy your travels in Tasmania. Stay safe & have fun😘
Wonderful sitting here safely with my coffee perusing your crossing to Tasmania. You earnt that Piper Heidsiek! Cheers from the Connors!
Great to hear that you’ve arrived in Tassie after your island hopping. I notice that you came near Preservation Is. which is a place I’ve read about.