- In short: We left St Helens on Saturday 27 April to make our way, via the scenic and secluded Wineglass Bay, to Triabunna marina and arrived there on Friday 10 May.
- Before starting this trip, I took a rapid antigen test and it showed I had covid. Subsequently, Robert also tested positive so we isolated ourselves in Wineglass Bay.
- What’s next? We’ll make our way to Hobart either via Tasman Island or Denison Canal.
At St Helens
We really enjoyed our stay at St Helens. There were a number of restaurants and cafes nearby, two IGA supermarkets, a providore, the “wash everything” premises (it had a laundromat, showers, car wash AND dog wash), Annie’s Cottage and Craft Supplies with a variety of yarns, a cycleway around the bay, and mountain bike tracks – if you have mountain bikes! There was also a vet practice, and the vet very kindly made a ‘boat call’ to vaccinate the boys. The next day I was standing at a cafe counter, waiting for my order and reading a book. Someone walked in to order and asked the staff member if “she had been served”. I glanced up, realised he had gestured to me, and said “yes she has!” to which he responded “she’s the cats mother”. I realised he was the vet and replied “Oh yes I am, and you vaccinated them yesterday!” We both had a laugh about this!
It was also great to catch up with a friends who were passing through. They very kindly invited us out to see the St Columba waterfall and visit the cheese shop at Pyengana Dairy. I bought a couple of jars of absolutely delicious wasabi mustard, which goes well with everything! It’s a bit similar to horseradish cream sauce.
St Helens to Bicheno (27/4/2024)
After nearly two weeks in St Helens, it was time to retrace our route out through the passage, cross the bar, and head south to Bicheno. This was a distance of about 45 nautical miles (NM) and took about 6 hours.
Towards the end of our stay at St Helens, I thought I had a cold. We’d made a dinner reservation at a French restaurant but after a day nap lasting 3 hours, I woke up feeling very unwell. Since I still had some rapid antigen tests on hand, I used one and found out I had covid. Needless to say, we didn’t go out to dinner.
When we arrived at Bicheno, I was still feeling a bit ordinary and not up to kayaking/swimming.
Bicheno to Wineglass Bay (28/4/2024)
We only stayed at Bicheno for a night because we figured Robert would catch covid and Wineglass Bay would be a good location to isolate. It’s about 22NM from Bicheno and took us 3 hours. Wineglass Bay would also be protected from most weather conditions. When we arrived there were a couple of yachts already in the bay, so we dropped our anchor nearby, but were a little more susceptible to the swell. A couple of days later, when the boats had moved, we nudged in around the point and were more protected.
And yes, Robert did come down with covid but thankfully he didn’t seem to be too unwell. Cold/flu tablets relieved most of our symptoms and we only needed to take them for about three days. But by then, I had fully recovered. The trick is to stagger one’s “covid journeys”!
Here are some photos taken as we left Bicheno and approached Wineglass Bay, passing around The Nuggets. I was up early and took some sunrise photos, which turned out to show amazing colours. And the rock formations/sculptures were breathtaking.
This map shows our and more protected second anchorage. The weather was sunny most of the time, and when Robert recovered, we walked across to Hazards Beach. Getting back into the tender after that was a little challenging with “not so gentle” waves breaking on the sand.
Most days a cruise boat arrived from Coles Bay staying for about an hour, and most nights we were visited by a seal. Towards the end of our stay, the seal visited for quite some time and put on a great show swimming around and under our boat, waving and finishing with spitting water at me. I believe this is a sign of affection!!
I couldn’t decide which photos of Wineglass Bay to include, so I created a slideshow with a lot of them. You may also spot a seal waving at around the 5min 30sec mark!
I include this photo just to show it wasn’t always sunny!
Wineglass Bay pictorial.
Wineglass Bay to Schouten Island (5/4/2024)
After a week in Wineglass Bay, we made the 12NM journey south to the northern end of Schouten Island. It was only about 1.5 hours and a very scenic trip. Photos (with captions) are below.
We anchored just off Morey’s Beach and there’s a camp site nearby with many walking tracks.
But once again we were keeping an eye on the weather conditions, the main factor determining our travel plans. The next day we decided to head to more protected waters on the north-western side of Freycinet National Park.
Schouten Island to Coles Bay (6/5/2024)
Our original plan was to spend a night at Swansea, using a courtesy mooring provided by Marine and Safety Tasmania (MAST). But when we arrived, we couldn’t find the mooring. We also were exposed to a swell coming across the bay and the area was shallow, so we were unable to anchor in a protected area. We decided to head over to Coles Bay, where there were two MAST moorings. When we arrived, we found them easily. Later I contacted MAST to report the missing mooring. This trip of 25NM took us just over 3.5 hours.
We spent a few nights here with stunning views of The Hazards mountain range. Ashore, we enjoyed one of the best ice creams and a walk around Coles Bay!
Coles Bay to Orford (9/5/2024)
After three days enjoying Coles Bay, it was time to move on and our destination was Orford. This was about 35NM and took us nearly 5 hours. It was quite misty with very light rain when we left, and we felt it was much colder. But as we approached Orford there were patches of blue sky.
There are three MAST moorings at Orford, and all were free when we arrived.
It was a little rolly overnight with the swell wrapping around Luther point, but not too bad (compared with what we’d previously experienced).
Orford to Triabunna (10/5/2024)
It’s about 4NM from Orford to Triabunna. With a number of shallow sections, particularly approaching the marina, we took it slowly. The channel is clearly marked with navigation aids, but they don’t all reflect the electronic charts as there has been some dredging.
However, we still timed our departure from Orford to take advantage of the incoming tide. I don’t think we ever saw less that 2m under our keel (and our draft is 1.4m).
Later we were chatting with some crew from a fishing boat, and they said there would be enough depth for us to transit the area on a half tide. This was helpful as it meant that when we were ready to leave, we didn’t have to be so specific with our departure time.
We thought we’d stay at Triabunna for about 5 days. When we found out the marina price ($49/day or $179/week) we decided to pay for the week and have the flexibility to leave when the conditions suited us.
Triabunna is a lovely township, and the fish van serves delicious fish and chips. There was also a laundromat, a couple of cafes, pub, IGA, post office, chemist and op shop. I found the IGA a bit limited with its stock, particularly fresh herbs (as there were none), but the meat options were good, and they stocked basic pantry item.
While there, we decided to catch the bus to Hobart and basically ate our way through the day! Cake and hot chocolate for morning tea, Thai lunch at Sandy Bay, ice cream in the afternoon, and a nip of whisky at Lark’s Distillery before catching the bus back. We also checked out the Kings Pier marina, where we hope to stay when we reach Hobart.
6 Responses
You are both amazing, love your updates of where you are, great photos and stories, glad the cat’s are doing well, we thought it was good that Andrew did house calls, but you managed a boat call!! Safe travels.
Love the foodie day out, with the digestive at the Distillery to finish… 🙂 Allow plenty of time at the Mona!
Wow – Bohemian Rhapsody this time! It goes well with your photos. xx
As always, great reading. And yes, you are making me home sick. I know all these places well. Keep up the great work and I will continue to watch with excitement. Happy and safe sailing x
What an excellent photo of you both to end with. I enjoyed the quick wit of the vet who named you ‘The cat’s mother!’
May
We have been to all these places travelling by car/motorhome but, your travels by sea give us another perspective.
The Derwent River and Hobart are now so close. Don’t forget to visit the fascinating ‘Mona’ Museum.
You have had a wonderful journey. You both look so happy.
Travel Safe.
Rob & Chicka